July 26, Day 43. Just such a wonderful day again. Was offered a shower by the nice families up the road (two families staying in the house for a holiday) so had a nice freshen up and when I was finished they had a fry on. The best breakfast for paddling is a good fry. The kids were all very excited to watch me leave the beach so they came while I finished packing and I showed them everything and answered lots of questions and then pushed off with happy goodbyes. Wind up, about a 5 in my face but not bad swell, a shy meter and I didn’t have far to go. Got to Blasket Sound and did tidal planning correct as to be pushed gently in towards the beach. Nothing crazy at all with the sound, was even calmer than the first half of the paddle. As I approached the beach I couldn’t believe to see what I thought were rocks until I heard them and remembered that seals inhabit this beach by the hundred probably - there were so many!
Landed and put my stuff down and immediately met a man in his 40s that had grown up on the island as a kid. Sometimes I think “I can’t make this up”, I just have been meeting so many amazing people and things happening that are such good stories. He told me about what it was like in the 90s when he was living in the ruins as a teenager to embrace his heritage and that when everyone was moving to the mainland, (sometime in the 50s I believe) they took the roofs with them, as to use them over there and save resources. He is here camping for a month with his friend visiting from Sweden. I went up to the little cafe - very basic just instant coffee and chocolate bars and sometimes scones. The man was very nice and we talked about my trip. Went for the most gorgeous walk around the first loop of the island and you look out and just see endless Atlantic. It’s an exceptional place. Made dinner and was hit with a dramatic spell of wind and rain that passed in 5 minutes. It’s such a joy to watch the seals play in the waves and watch their outlines on the cresting wave. They watch me too, with curious faces and wide eyes. The seals are always a total nod to Wild Atlantic nature.
